St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby Dodrill » Mon Oct 22, 2012 7:34 pm

Over the past couple months five new sport routes went in near the North Summit. Probably the best rock in the St. Helena region, but the longest approach at 1.5+ hrs. Let me know if you want to check it out. .10b, .10c/d, .11a, .11c, .12+, 70-75' routes.

Also, Check out Thornburg's new guide book for beta on Kimball Canyon and Hailstone Rock.
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Tue Oct 23, 2012 9:55 am

Alright!
Did the .12 get sent?
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:12 am

on the fin - what is the grade of the left most route and is there a new route around the corner to the right. Looks much more moderate than the others on the fin.

had a fun day up at hailstone. really fun tr lines over the mini roofs left of the arete and the newer bolted corner to buldge climb has cleaned up and is really fun. finally climbed the crack on tr .9+ - awkward with lots of grunting. :) probably won't drag up gear to lead this.

the trails are super awesome. thx trail gnomes. :D
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby Dodrill » Wed Oct 31, 2012 5:15 am

Yes, Tim sent the .12+ and called it "Wappos are Peoples Too." Such an outrageous line!

Fin: Tractor Parade is left most .10a. The right most line is .10c~ish.

Glad you had a good day at Hailstone. That place is sweet. How hard did the mini-roof TRs feel? Think that variation should get bolted? The rock is really good there...
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:55 am

Cool. Congrats Tim!

right side roof - maybe low/mid 10
left side roof - hard 10 based on my Ondra screams :P

i'd leave em as tr's, but they would be a fun lead and are mostly independent lines

i found your cleaning tool at the base.
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby eric berghorn » Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:43 pm

Image

Image
Doppelganger 5.9 Hole in the Wall Rock

Image

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Close Encounters 5.10d (of the bird Kind)

Image
Whitney on Hailstone Arete

Met some fellow climbers at MSH from Palo Alto at random last Saturday. They had been up to MSH climbing a couple of times and w/Jim's new guidebook found thier way to Hailstone Rock. Andrew and Whitney ! Turned out to be a nice climbing day doing all the routes there !
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby Dodrill » Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:06 pm

Nice Eric. Did you send Hell Fire?
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby caughtinside » Tue Nov 27, 2012 1:07 pm

Headed up the 128 on my way to Anderson Valley last week. I'd never really looked at St. Helena from the NE before... there is a ton of rock up there! I imagine you guys have thwacked your way out to look at it?

I think I also saw that Kimball Canyon area below... looks like a pretty area. I'll have to check it out one of these (dry!!) weekends.
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby Dodrill » Tue Dec 11, 2012 6:41 am

Yes indeed. The rock is terrible though. Nobody would ever want to climb up there. 8)
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Tue Dec 11, 2012 10:27 am

hey caught - your question was answered at the top of this page. :D

its a great....umm, hike. :P
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:33 am

ivory coast is a fun climb. thx eric.

jerry got the onsight on saturday, i followed on TR. worth the extra hike out there if you're already at the farside
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby Dodrill » Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:57 pm

For sure worthy! Really enjoyed it. Nice easy approach slabs to a fun headwall.
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Thu May 16, 2013 11:11 am

if you haven't already, check out the mountain project page - Floyd Hayes has included a bunch of obscure and random climbs, mostly out at farside. he has a lot of stuff for the quarry too.

thx Floyd
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Thu Oct 03, 2013 3:58 pm

just saw on MP that the anchor bolts for synchronicity are gone.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/synchr ... /106707740

Floyd mentions in the old tradition page on MP that there are unnecessary bolts on top of the formation. he probably didn't realize there was a sport climb on the other side. I doubt he would pull them though. Anyone with any info?

Good to meet you Floyd last Tuesday at the meeting. Cya at the crag.
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Thu Oct 03, 2013 3:59 pm

Also the Floyd posted that the pin on Something Good is gone. Maybe someone can put a bolt there and maybe a foot lower. :)
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Wed Nov 26, 2014 11:38 am

Black Tower - Jerry, should we post the topo here?
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Tue Jul 28, 2015 9:20 am

lead the 10b at wappo tower on Sunday. I know no one looks at this forum anymore, but if you do, you should seek out the approach beta from me or Jerry and go there. Great climbs. Sigourno got the FA on this one I think. It's really good and goes in the shade in the afternoon.
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Re: St. Helena, New and Obscure routes

Postby splitclimber » Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:16 am

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