SAFETY ISSUES, FAILING GEAR

Issues related to climbing access and safety.

SAFETY ISSUES, FAILING GEAR

Postby Moji » Fri Nov 10, 2006 4:51 pm

There is some new info out re dyneema and spectra slings. Breakage is occuring especially in the skinny dynema. It seems these slings wear out faster, and are harder on other equipment ie other sling material and caribiners due to the type of fiber. Replace gear often. Never girth or tie dyneema to another sling material, or to another dyneema. Carabiners should be used to connect slings to each other, or to the rope. Stay safe, check your old gear and even the gear you think is "new."

Maybe someone will surf around for some safety sites ie BD or other. don't have time right now. pm me for ? Moji
User avatar
Moji
Infliction affliction addiction
 
Posts: 884
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:00 pm
Location: real time

Postby cvd » Fri Nov 10, 2006 5:34 pm

Here's a thread about it on Supertaco:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=269434&f=0&b=0

Those skinny dyneema slings always made me nervous ...
Just Breathe!
User avatar
cvd
Infliction affliction addiction
 
Posts: 583
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2006 9:30 am
Location: Rohnert Park

Petzl CARABINERS

Postby Moji » Mon Nov 13, 2006 11:38 pm

The following note appeared in the chronicle on Nov. 12:

Petzl America of Clearfield, Utah is recalling 8,000 carabiners used
for climbing. These carabiners have a green button that acts as a
safety mechanism to prevent unlocking. The recalled devices can
unlock unexpectedly without pressing the green button, posing a fall hazard.
User avatar
Moji
Infliction affliction addiction
 
Posts: 884
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:00 pm
Location: real time

Postby splitclimber » Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:29 pm

Never girth or tie dyneema to another sling material, or to another dyneema.


What about girth hitching tubular webbing? I did this on a 3rd TR anchor a few weeks ago and was wondering if that method was safe.
splitclimber
Infliction affliction addiction
 
Posts: 933
Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:18 am

Postby Dodrill » Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:37 pm

Tubular 'should' be okay, or at least better. I've been doing it for years and am still alive, sorta.
Manifest the Psych
User avatar
Dodrill
Infliction affliction addiction
 
Posts: 2162
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2006 11:20 am
Location: Sebastohole

Postby Moji » Tue Dec 12, 2006 7:07 pm

depends on what you girth it with.. lately the chat is that dyneema is such a sharp thread , and spectra too, that it cuts thru webbing and even itself with friction..there's alot going on with this lately but no recall yet M
User avatar
Moji
Infliction affliction addiction
 
Posts: 884
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:00 pm
Location: real time

Postby Moji » Fri Dec 15, 2006 4:48 pm

Here are the general findings of the Black Diamond test : the complete test can be found at http://www.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php#110906



First off, our results were very comparable to Chris Harmston’s findings, and I agree with his recommendations—before you join two slings together think about the following:

* Is it possible to use a longer sling altogether?
* If you need to join two slings, using a carabiner is stronger

And in addition:

* If you must join two slings, use the same materials and width
* Symmetrical knots (like the Strop Bend and Climber’s Hitch) appear to perform better than a standard Girth Hitch when joining two slings together

... LuckyPink (personally you know what I prefer in my anchor)
User avatar
Moji
Infliction affliction addiction
 
Posts: 884
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:00 pm
Location: real time

Postby splitclimber » Mon Dec 18, 2006 2:44 pm

Thanks Moji. Lots of good info on that BD link.
splitclimber
Infliction affliction addiction
 
Posts: 933
Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:18 am


Return to Access and Safety

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron